 |
 |
| |
| |
 Cavalier Care |
Grooming
COAT
You will need six items to successfully keep your Cavalier's coat in
tip-top shape. (1) A fine or medium toothed comb, (2)
a flea comb,
(3)
a flat, natural bristle brush,
(4)
a slicker brush,
(5) scissors, and (6)
shampoo and conditioner.
Cavaliers do shed, but less than most working breeds who have a
tremendous amount of undercoat. To keep tangles and shedding
to a minimum, you should brush your Cavalier at least once a
week--more often during the spring and fall shedding time.
Start with the medium-toothed comb and comb your Cavalier all over.
Then do the same with the flea comb--it's very narrow teeth really
pull out the extra dead hair. The slicker is good for
feathering and the ears. Last I use a bristle brush and go
over all the smooth parts of the coat until it shines. This is the
part my dogs like best. If you come across a tangle, try to
carefully comb it out first, working with your fingers at the same
time. If the tangle is too large or too close to the skin,
take your scissors and cut the tangle in half--cutting in the
direction of the hair. Many times a single cut down the middle
of the tangle will be all that is needed and the tangle will comb
out easily. Another trick that works is to take the slicker
brush and push the pins right through the tangle, then move the
slicker in a circular motion for a couple of seconds. Often
this will loosen up the tangle enough for it to be worked out.
If the tangle is larger and not caused by a burr or gook from the
previous meal (those ears get quite long and often end up in the
food), it may be a good idea to brush your Cavalier more often.
Please note that during shedding season (spring and fall), Cavaliers
tend to tangle more. I groom all my Cavaliers once a week,
usually the same day every week and very seldom find any tangles at
all. If I do I usually look for a cause. If the tangles
always end up behind the ears, please have your vet check the ears
(see Ear care). If they end up in the chest it may be because
your Cavalier drools when anxious or excited and you may need to
comb that area more often. If they end up in the abdomen, you
may want to trim some of the hair from that area as your Cavalier
may be peeing on the hair and tangling it--or it may be licking it
to clean it. There is almost always a reason for excessive
tangling. For those dogs with a truly fly-away coat that
tangles easily--try spraying it once or twice a week with a diluted
conditioner. This may be all that is needed to prevent
tangles. As far as bathing goes, bath your dog whenever
necessary--whenever you feel he/she smells bad or whatever.
Bathe as often as you feel necessary. It is hard to dry out
the coat if the dog is fed properly. If your Cavalier's coat
is dry, you may need to change foods or add a little oil to its food
(or keep him/her from sleeping on or in front of the heat
register!). As for fleas, you may follow any routine your vet
advises, but please remember "less is best". Use the simplest
flea preventative possible that does the trick. Remember that
heartworm preventative, flea preventatives, tick control, worm
medicine--even though deemed safe--are still poisons! If your
Cavalier truly needs something that controls all of these, go ahead
and use it. But if your Cavalier doesn't---please don't.
I feel certain your Cavalier will be healthier for it--however tiny
the difference.
FEET/NAILS
You should trim your puppy's nails about twice a month until 1 year
of age and about once a month thereafter with a
nail cutter.
Cavaliers are a very easy breed to trim nails on. They stand
quite still without fear as compared to most other breeds. On
the white nails, you can see the pink "quick" that you need to
avoid. Just cut the nail back to slightly before the pick
quick begins. On black nails, look at the underside of the tip
of the nail, you can usually see where the quick starts as the nail
doesn't go completely around the quick at the tip unless you have
waited much too long. Again cut to slightly above where the
quick starts. If for any reason your Cavalier does not want to
let you cut its nails; try cutting their nails in an area where you
can smear a bit of peanut butter nearby. This should keep your
Cavalier busy while you are doing the deed. Although hair on
your Cavalier's paws is supposed to be left untrimmed, you are
supposed to trim the hair between the pads on the bottom of the
feet. Twice a year is probably plenty. If you are not
going to show your Cavalier, go ahead and keep the rest of the hair
on the foot quite short also. When kept long they have a
tendency to "collect" snow balls, burrs, mud, etc.!
EARS
Breeds with long, floppy ears do have a tendency to develop ear
infections. Will your Cavalier be prone? It is hard to
say for sure. Few puppies have problems--usually because the
ear "leather" (the actual cartilege of the ear) tends to be thinner,
and because the feathering/hair is short and thin. As the
puppy matures, its hair gets longer, and the actual ear cartilage
thickens somewhat. Some adults still have fairly thin
leathers, carry their ears high, and do not have profuse feathering.
These Cavaliers rarely have ear problems no matter how little
attention you pay to their ears. Others seem to carry their
ears lower, have profuse feathering, and very thick ear
cartilage--these are the ones you have to be careful with.
Every time you groom your Cavalier look carefully inside the ears.
If you see some dirt/ear wax, clean the ear lightly with the cleaner
I tell you about below. If the ears always appear clean--do
NOT clean them! I have several dogs whose ears have never been
cleaned--not even once! Sometimes cleaning them will leave a
bit of moisture in them setting them up for production of yeast so
it is best to leave them alone unless they get dirty.
The best ear medicine/cleaner I have seen to date follows. In 26
years I've found nothing--not even the best medicine from my
vet--that works nearly as well. It is easy and inexpensive to
make enough of this solution to last a lifetime. Buy the
following items:
One (1) sixteen ounce bottle of isopropyl alcohol
One (1) small bottle of Boric Acid Powder
One (1) small bottle of Genetian Violet Solution 1% which can be
ordered at almost any pharmacy for only $3 or $4
Put 4 tablespoons of the Boric Acid Powder directly into the bottle
of Alcohol. Put 16 drops of the Gentian Violet Solution 1% also into
the bottle.
Shake VERY well before every single use because the Boric Acid tends
to settle.
If your Cavalier develops an ear infection squirt a small amount of
this solution into each ear and massage it well for 10 seconds, then
leave it. Do this twice a day for 2 days. After that do
it once a day and clean the ears before putting the solution in,
then leave it in. Do this for 5 more days--the infection
should be gone.
TEETH
Toy breeds in general, seem to be prone to excess buildup of plaque
which leads to tooth decay. I suggest teaching your puppy to
tolerate a tooth brush and at about 1 year of age begin brushing
once a month or more (look at the teeth and judge for yourself how
often). As the dog ages you are likely to need to brush more
often, eventually doing it every day if necessary. Keeping the
teeth clean is very important to prevent gum disease and eventual
loss of teeth. Letting your dog chew on raw marrow bones daily
will help a lot as well.
ANAL SACS
Leave them alone; don't let your vet touch them in a puppy less than
one year of age--unless they are truly uncomfortable. Nearly
ALL anal sac problems are caused by vets expressing them too often
starting at a young age. Once they start, they can never stop.
Dogs in the wild do not need their anal sacs expressed, why should
yours? Your puppy may scoot occasionally. It could be
because of filled anal sacs, but it could also be because they have
an itch or are trying to put their scent on the floor (after all
that is what they are for!). Anal sacs can also develop
problems whenever a dog has loose stools, so try to avoid this.
If your puppy has loose stools/diarrhea, look for a cause. The
wrong food is often the culprit--so try changing foods. Look
at the ingredients--if the food has chicken, try one with lamb.
See if a different food will cause the stool to harden up.
Check for worms--they can cause occasional diarrhea as well.
Unfortunately vaccinations often cause loose stools as well which is
why so many puppies end up having their anal sacs expressed so often
and end up with a problem. I suggest attempting to leave them
alone while they are getting their vaccinations unless the puppy
gets truly uncomfortable. If you can make it through the first
6 months without the vet expressing the anal sacs, you will be well
on your way to having a dog that may only rarely or never need them
expressed. Dogs fed a whole foods diet have VERY tiny, hard poops
that naturally express the dog's anal sacs. I have only done
one or two of my dogs ever--always after a bout of diarrhea.
The rest of them have never been done--not even once.
<BACK TO MAIN CAVALIER CARE PAGE
Copyright 2009
Roycroft WebDesign. No part of this site may be copied or reproduced without written permission.